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The refrigerator condenser fan plays an essential role in the refrigeration cycle, but not all refrigerators have one. Refrigerators that have their condenser coil mounted on the back of the cabinet do not have one. Refrigerators that have their condenser coils mounted in the compressor compartment use fans to force air through the coil to help transfer the heat of compression to the environment. Troubleshooting is simple but requires a digital multimeter.
Refrigerator Not Cooling Properly
A fan (I think evaporator fan) keeps cycling on and off for about 1-2 seconds consistently when the fridge is not running (when the compressor is off). Every time it cycles I can feel cold air blowing out the vents in the freezer and fridge sections.
The condenser fan is vital to the operation of a hermetically sealed refrigerator that has its condenser mounted inside the compressor compartment. The condenser converts the highly compressed refrigerant from a gaseous state into a liquid sate. The fan forces environmental air through the condenser, aiding the transfer of the heat of compression from the coil to the ambient air. An inoperative fan not only causes the cabinet temperature to rise but causes the compressor to overheat, which leads to its premature failure and a costly repair.
How the Fan Works
Of all the electrical components that make up a refrigerator systems, the condenser fan motor circuit is the easiest to troubleshoot. The fan is designed to operate anytime the compressor is operating and is controlled by the same set of contacts on the temperature control switch. If the compressor runs but the fan does not, the chances are good that you will need to replace the fan's motor. Nevertheless, you could be dealing with a bad electrical connection, so do not rush out and buy a new motor until you double-check it and its related wiring with a DMM (digital multimeter).
Check the Motor
Unplug the refrigerator from its wall receptacle. Then, before you reach for your DMM, try turning the fan blade by hand. In many cases the motor's bearing becomes gummed up with dirt, and the motor is unable to start and run. If the motor is bound up tight or the shaft is hard to turn, you may be able to salvage the motor by spraying the shaft with penetrating oil. If the fan turns freely, you need to check its windings for continuity.
Checking Motor Windings
Set the function switch to 'Ohms' on an auto-ranging DMM or the 'R X 1' scale on a manual ranging DMM. Insert the test probes in the connector on the fan motor leads. First, check between the black and white wires; if the meter's LCD displays an “O.L.,” the motor's winding has become open and you need to replace the motor. For a good motor, the LCD will display some nominally low reading between 10.00 and 30.00 ohms. If the motor passes this first test, check between each of those wires and the green wire; you are now looking for an “O.L.” if the motor is good. Any other reading indicates that the motor has shorted out to ground and needs to be replaced.
Check Wiring Continuity
If the motor seems OK, check for a broken wire. With your DMM still set to 'Ohms,' take a continuity reading between the ends of each wire connected to the motor. Check the wiring schematic affixed to the back of the refrigerator or to the inside of the compressor compartment to locate the test points.
References (3)
About the Author
Based in Colorado Springs, Colo., Jerry Walch has been writing articles for the DIY market since 1974. His work has appeared in “Family Handyman” magazine, “Popular Science,” 'Popular Mechanics,' “Handy” and other publications. Walch spent 40 years working in the electrical trades and holds an Associate of Applied Science in applied electrical engineering technology from Alvin Junior College.
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